Even so, I still have a feeling I didn't do it justice. I'll order loads of things that sound interesting only to realise at the end that I've merely had the sort of Chinese food you used to get in those grim joints in Hayes circa 1983, where the spare ribs were a Tango shade of orange and the crispy beef really wasn't.Īs it happens we ate brilliantly at Oriental Dragon, which lurks in one of those dark-shadowed, quasi-residential lanes north of Oxford Street, where the air smells softly of unwashed student. Meal for two, including wine and service: £60 There is a kind of salty paranoia that strikes me most commonly in a particular type of Chinese restaurant: a fear that however carefully I read the menu, however much I plot and triangulate the found poetry of the dishes against each other, I'm still going to fail to get the best out of the place.
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